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Expatriate Retirees Consider This Hidden Jewel Named Boquete a Paradise Found

Cost of Living:  Below the U.S. National Average

Numerous recent publications have written about the charms of relocating to Panama, a favorite up-and-coming foreign retirement destination, and it is easy to understand why.  This lush, tropical country is located between Central and South America and is roughly 2 1/2 hours by air from Miami.   Spanish is the official language, but English is widely spoken.  The currency is the balboa, which has the same value as the U.S. dollar (and the U.S. dollar is a common currency as well).  Real estate prices are lower than those in the U.S., and the overall cost-of-living is roughly 1/2 that of the average U.S. mid-sized city.    The country is stable politically.  The scenery is nothing short of spectacular.   Taxation laws are very favorable.  Immigration regulations are lax, and expatriate retirees are welcomed.

 

 

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Panama has three primary destinations for expat retirees.  Panama City and the Pearl Islands are two; the other is a wonderful farm town named Boquete (population 17,000) in the western highlands (elevation is 3,200 feet).  Nestled in a green valley with dramatic, mist-shrouded volcanic mountains on three sides and with a river running through the center of town, Boquete almost defines the word "Paradise."   It is starting to be discovered by outdoor-oriented tourists, and developers are moving in, but this peaceful town still feels unspoiled and undiscovered.   Located in the "Valley of the Flowers," it seems that anything can grow here, and Boquete is indeed known for its outstanding oranges and coffee.  

 

Currently, Boquete has about 600 expatriate retirees, but that number is increasing almost weekly.  Many articles point out that real estate in Panama is very inexpensive.  In Boquete, this is not so true, mainly because foreigners are bidding up prices, but buyers do still seem to receive a good value for their balboa.  Homes here can be built for roughly $50 per square foot, but that does not include the land price.  In addition to selling homes, developers are buying tracts of land and selling lots.  The least expensive lot we found was about 10 minutes outside of town, on a good road and with lovely views of the surrounding hillside.  It was 17,000 square feet and priced at $56,000.  Considering that a 2,500 square foot home can be built for roughly $125,000, an added $56,000 brings the total price to $181,000.  Not dirt cheap but not a bad value for the money.  We also found in town a soon-to-be built gated community with a 21,000 square foot lot  for $85,000.  Located on a hillside next to the Volcan Baru National Park, it had (and probably still does) jaw-dropping views of the Pacific Ocean.

$125,000 will buy a new, 2 bedroom, 2 bath condominium with 1,400 square feet in a development close to the town center.    For $149,000, we discovered a very unique, 3 bedroom, 2 bath home precariously perched on the side of a hill overlooking town.   For $160,000, we found in town a lovely 3 bedroom, 3 bath townhouse with lush landscaping and a large terrace.  $190,000 will fetch a beautiful 3 bedroom, 2 bath home that is completely furnished.  We discovered a wonderful 2 bedroom, 2 bath home overlooking a small river and a golf course in a gated community for $345,000.  It comes with a covered tiled deck, large teak deck, sunken Jacuzzi and a glass sun room with a volcano view.     Boquete also has a number of large estates, several owned by expatriates.

Boquete Plantation is a new, gated community about 15 minutes outside of Boquete and offers gorgeous, owner-built "Tuscan-style" homes with red-tile roofs.  Lots are being sold starting at about $82,000.   Buyers must build their own homes using preferred builders and follow one of several floor plans that the development provides.   An inn on-property is also planned.    Cielo Paraiso is a new, exclusive gated community that actually builds homes for buyers.   An 18 hole golf course is under construction, and a hotel is planned.

Valle Escondito is a retirement community with a golf course and custom-built homes that celebrate the Spanish Colonial period of Panama's history.  All homes have tile floors, red tile roofs and wood ceilings.  Villas (actually duplexes with 2,000 to 3,000 square feet) and condominiums (1,500 square feet) will be built, and buyers are urged to use one of several preferred builders. 

Vista Boquete is a new, luxury condominium development with new 3 bedroom, 3 bath units for $275,000.

Volcancito, a small community about 10 minutes down the road from Boquete, is another place to explore for housing.  Home here are not less expensive, but they provide more choices.

Villegas and Martinez (507-720-2584) is a local builder that offers free consultations before any land is purchased and builds custom homes from the $65 per square foot price range.

Panamanian law allows for both nationals and foreigners to purchase property in Panama, but the government does not allow foreigners to purchase property located less than ten kilometers from the frontiers, nor on islands under the jurisdiction of Panama.   Make sure land purchased is titled.

Panama is a very appealing retirement choice for many reasons, not the least being The Pensioners Program (Visa Pensionado), the government's way of enticing older foreigners to settle here (although one only need to be 18 or older to apply).   This program allows foreigners to obtain legal residency in Panama under the condition that they are retired or pensioned.  The only requirements to becoming a "pensioner" are being in good health and having a guaranteed, "provable" income of $500 per month ($600 for a couple), which must be a company or government agency pension (e.g. Social Security, disability, military pay, etc.).  

After one becomes a Panamanian pensioner, he or she is  immediately eligible for the most comprehensive program of expatriate benefits in the world, including 50% off entertainment anywhere in the country, 50% off closing costs for home mortgages, 30% off public transportation (bus, boat, and train fares), 25% off restaurant meals, 20% off doctor’s visits, 15% off hospital bills (for those without  insurance coverage) and 10% off prescriptions.   In addition, pensioners who buy or build a home are not subject to property tax for 20 years (land is excluded) and pay no taxes on foreign-earned income (including business proceeds, Social Security or pensions).   Newcomers can also bring in a car and up to $10,000 in belongings tax-free.  Interest from deposits in Panama banks is also exempt.

While real estate prices are comparable to many areas of the United States, the general cost of everyday living is less, making the overall cost-of-living, particularly when pensioner discounts are factored in, much less.  For example, water bills run roughly $20 a year.  A haircut and a shave at a local barber are $1.25.  Lunch in a restaurant is $1.50.  A full-time live in maid is $120 a month.    Homes do not have heat or air conditioning, so those bills are non-existent.

The closest city to Boquete is David (population 120,000), the provincial capital, about an hour away by bus (fare is $1.20) or 30 minutes by car.   Here are two hospitals (Hospital Mae Lewis and Hospital Chiriqui) and many convenience of modern-day life.   Boquete does not have a hospital but does have a medical clinic (Centro Médico San Juan Bautista at 507.720.1881) and enough doctors to service a town of its size.  Medicare is not accepted outside of the U.S., but expatriate pensioners can obtain government health insurance for $50 a month.  Health care overall is quite good.

For anyone with a love of the outdoors, this area cannot be beat.  Waterfalls, hiking trails and botanical gardens are all just outside of town.   Nearby Baru Volcano rises to 14,000 feet, and trekking to the top is not at all easy (the trail starts out paved from town and then turns into a muddy mess), but the reward at the top is a breathtaking view of both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans (this climb is only for the well-conditioned and best undertaken during the dry season so views are not clouded over).  Unfortunately, there is also an unattractive telecom building at the top of the volcano.   Two hundred foot tall San Ramon Waterfall is worth a trek, too, and is much easier to reach.   River rafting and hot springs are not far away.  There are also two new golf courses, two new museums and several new restaurants and pubs around town.

Boquete has two seasons, dry and wet.  The dry season stems from December to April, and the rainy season from May to November.   This area of Panama has mostly Spring-like temperatures, ranging from 60 degrees to 90 degrees, year-round, but it can get hot and muggy in the summer, and winter evenings may require a sweater.

Panama City, roughly an hour away from David by air, has direct daily flights to several U.S. cities, including Miami, Los Angeles and Dallas.

As for drawbacks, some tours are seriously overpriced, and traffic on the main road can be harrowing at times.  And it is important to be aware that as in many foreign lands seeing an influx of "rich gringos," there is a disparity in economic levels.  Here, many of the indigenous people (the Guaymies), who primarily work on the coffee plantations, live at near-poverty levels.  A prerequisite for relocating here, as with any foreign destination, is to have a respect for the locals and their way of life. 

While Boguete is still tranquil, money is moving in, and retirees who have tired of Costa Rica and Mexico are considering Panama and Boquete as their next home.    It is inevitable that this area will change and probably not for the better as more developers stake their claim.   Local coffee growers have been selling their farms for huge amounts of money, especially by Panamanian standards, and homes will eventually take the place of lush farm land, which may disrupt the local economy.    For now, though, Boquete is a tropical haven without the stresses of the modern-day world.   Relocating here may mean giving up some conveniences (internet access is, however, available at several locations around town, including the Professional Center where they charge $2 per hour), but those who have made the move seem content, relaxed and convinced that they have found a little slice of heaven.

For more information, contact Boquete's tourism office. They can be reached at 011-507-720-4060 or 011-507- 775-4120 from the U.S.

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Great Retirement Towns